To read the full document, please check the following link to the Art Bulletin of Nationalmuseum Volume 23, 2016
“Contemporary Swedish and international jewellery is situated in a field where the focus is on communication, boundary crossing and materiality. Gender norms and social issues are being explored in almost any other material than precious metals and gemstones.
In spring 2016, the Nationalmuseum staged the exhibition Open Space – Mind Maps: Positions in Contemporary Jewellery,which was the core display of Stockholm’s first combined jewellery event – Art Jewellery 2016 – organised by the Museum in association with jewellery specialist Inger Wästberg. Exhibitions of jewellery were shown at many venues around the
city.1 Open Space – Mind Maps presented160 works that challenged prevailing ideas about artistic expression, form and materials, created by 30 internationally noted jewellery artists, seven of them with links to Sweden (Fig. 1).2 The curator was Dr Ellen Maurer Zilioli from Munich.
The growing importance of art jewel- lery in the broader cultural debate and, above all, in the current discussion about the applied arts is clearly in evidence in the Nationalmuseum’s collection. In 2016,18 pieces of jewellery made after the year2000 were added to it, and during the period the Museum has been closed for refurbishment, beginning in 2013, a total
of 56 pieces created since the millen- nium have been acquired. These works will figure prominently in the display of the collection when the newly renovated Nationalmuseum opens in the autumn of2018.
Identity and gender roles are issues that are discussed by a number of contem- porary jewellery artists. Carolina Gimeno, who grew up in Chile but trained and now works in Europe, says that “reflecting different identities means to me that I am in constant change as well”.3 The starting point for her series of brooches Portable Pleasures: When Intimacy Becomes Public(2014) was a collection of used socks
(Fig. 2). This everyday and gender-neutral item of clothing is worn by both women and men. Gimeno reshaped the socks into sculptures with forms reminiscent of the most intimate parts of men’s and women’s bodies. By doing so, she wanted to investi- gate not only where the limits of intimacy go in the public space, but also how art jewellery can contribute to the debate about gender.”